"ERSTERS
AND TROUTLINES"
Likely long-gone now in St. Mary’s is the
peculiar dialect many were once heard to speak here. I say peculiar,
not in the sense of strange, but rather in the sense of singular,
not spoken elsewhere in my experience. The closest to it would be
the patois of the backwoods Appalachian mountain folks I’ve heard on
ethnologists’ recordings and in introductions to old-time fiddle and
banjo tunes they sang. The St. Mary’s dialect was different however,
more Elizabethan English with that sort-of gentle Tidewater slide to
it.
In my youth, there were still some elders
puttering around in fields and on deadrises that spoke in that
fashion. For better or worse, these folks (the men, at least) were
people of few words anyway and nods of the head, a wink here and
there and some very short, simple sentences conveyed about all they
saw fit and found necessary. And since most of those they spoke to
were of like dispositions and they were so well-known to each other,
they’d long-ago said much of what they had to say anyway, and there
was little need for much detailed discussion.
These were pretty much "gee" and "haw" folks and
simply "supper" conveyed what was required to tell one where they
were headed. And "supper" was to be had "come hame." "Sturm comin’,"
uttered quietly meant making a run for it if it appeared to the
weepy red-tinged expert eye (no sunglasses they), barely visible
under a broad-brimmed and tattered straw, that your day on the River
was at end.
All this was due to a geographical reality: St.
Mary’s was long on the way to nowhere else. These folks had been
born and raised here for generation after generation, on the same
land and among those just like them. Remember, just as St. Mary’s,
Solomon’s also was the end of the road and a recent trip up what’s
now Rte. 2 to Annapolis, reminded that the "Old Solomon’s Island
Road," which now crosses the "New" road 8 or 9 times, followed
farmers’ field lines, not anything like straight line. Crops and
livelihoods they provided were much more important than roads!
Imagine that.
And in St. Mary’s the same applied. Not much need
to go "fur" up the road anyway. They did put that draw-bridge in at
Benedict in the late 20’s, but the Thomas Johnson Bridge wasn’t even
an idea. You crossed the Patuxent by boat or not at all. Old Rte. 5
from Leonardtown and Three-Notch Road from what became Lexington
Park weren’t much more than what passes for a poorly maintained farm
lane of today. Pot holes, alternating dust and mud, washouts and
rising freshets were always in contention with the traveler who
didn’t come and go the old-fashioned way – by water, by sail or
steamboat.
There was no radio or television and even when
they came, reception was sketchy. Telephones came, roads were
macadamed, the Base was established and St. Mary’s gradually became
connected to the outside world. With the influx of new people and
more convenient access elsewhere, folks more and more heard others
who spoke what we’d call either "standard English" required of media
voices or the multitude of other dialects used by those who came
from elsewhere. Gradually, but ever so surely, the St. Mary’s County
dialect died-out in a couple of generations with the exposure to
those who spoke differently. Increased years of schooling, mandated
by law, and machines’ reduction in the need for children to work the
family farm, kept kids in school most through high school and under
the sustained influence of teachers whose speech patterns were
maintained with a rigor unknown among today’s educators. Their
parents’ and certainly their grandparents’ way of speaking was
likely viewed with respect, was understood, but was not taken up as
theirs. It’s almost like what I’ve observed with many second and
third-generation emigrants who can understand their parents’ or
grandparents’ foreign tongue, but can’t speak it themselves.
Despite this, especially among some of our older
natives even today, a bit of the old way sneaks in, almost unnoticed
unless one’s ear recognizes it for what it is.
The likely most common of these is the word "ersters."
Sometimes heard still in the remoter parts of the Eastern Shore
also, this refers to the sorely dimmished bivalve which once was the
backbone of the whole Chesapeake Bay fisheries industry.
The other coming readily to mind, having heard it
just the other day, is "trout line." As best I know, this is the
same as a "trot line." Don’t bother to look either up in your
dictionary; they’re not there, neither of them. For those
uninitiates among us, what we’re talking about is a long length of
string or waxed cord which is anchored at both ends marked by
floats, from which at intervals bait is suspended below the water
surface. Working this whole get-up is a waterman in a small boat
with at rolling pulley-like mechanism attached to the gunnel, which
raises the line above water as the boat proceeds down-throttle,
slowly and methodically back and forth the length of the line. As
the baited line rises with a crab hungrily hanging-on to his bait
meal, the waterman gently dips him up by net and into a
bushel-basket. This process is repeated until no crabs appear or the
waterman tires of the task. A "trout line," you say; no trout in
this any way. No rainbows, browns here and our sea-trout aren’t the
prey. Best I can figure, "trout" is indeed "trot" and this refers to
the slow pace the boat must travel to successfully work the line. It
likely reflects the boat speed, more than a walk, less than a run.
Before outboards became universal, I recall watching with awe a
neighbor working his rig propelling his skiff by skulling with one
hand and dipping the crabs with his net in the other. That was an
ancient ballet now sadly lost that I’m sure had been performed for
hundreds of years, prosaicly and without notice on the St. Mary’s
and everywhere down here. Its pure beauty on a glassy surface,
virtually soundless, is a memory I retain fondly to this day.
For those uninitiates who wonder what a "gunnel"
is, it’s the side of the boat. As to "skulling," it’s likely a lost
art of actually propelling the boat forward by an oar set in an
oarlock at the stern and magically rotating the oar in sort of an
elongated figure-8 fashion. I can describe it; I despair of doing
it; and so likely will anyone who’s reading this. Like a magician’s
tricks, you see it with your own eyes; it was done; but dammed if
you could do it yourself.
Trout lines and ersters stubbornly remain.
Skulling, except in name, done gone.
Thus ends my lesson.
A
Doc. Shortage:
One Reason
Hospitals and physician groups moan and groan
about not enough docs staying in Maryland to practice?
A reason why? Just peek at the rolls of exotic
names of med-school students and you might wonder where all those
children, grandchildren and great-grand children of local
physicians, bred to medicine, go to med. school. Deep-rooted
Maryland dynastic doctor families of earlier times must survive to
some extent, so perhaps their scions are relegated to the Timbuktu
or Guadalajara Med. School now, and their practices elsewhere.
Maryland taxpayers foot a good part of the bill
at the University of Maryland Medical School, so why not give
qualified Maryland-born applicants a big break on admissions and
financial aid? We need to re-align our "preferences" with Maryland’s
needs and, as once was the case by geographic happenstance and
less-global transience, give priority to those that have deep roots
here and are least likely to pick-up and leave.
Maybe, just maybe, its high time – at least for
all State-supported schools – to concentrate on turning-out
home-grown docs (Nurses and a multitude of other short-supply Health
care and non-health care professionals) and forget "diversity,"
"grant-chasing,"esoteric "research," and "national rankings" as
these schools’ real reasons for existence. Leave that for Johns
Hopkins, maybe.
Tax payers suffer these gratuitous ambitions at
their expense and pray they’ll not fall victim to the results of all
this self-promoting, political correctness. And naturally, the poor
docs, always overworked, impoverished and avoiding inconvenience to
themselves, in chorus with put-upon hospitals suggest others foot
the whole bill. Nothing new about that.
Are we so lacking in qualified Marylanders
wanting to become physicians that we need look elsewhere to fill
State-subsidized med. school seats? I hope not, but if we are, a
shortage of physicians is but another symptom of a much more
disastrous problem for our society as a whole.
Even to suggest such is isolationist, even
Xenophobic or reactionary, and will bring forth self-righteous howls
from comfortable, devoted aherents to these same prevailing pretexts
everywhere in State professional and undergrad schools. That said,
it doesn’t make things other than they are or provide any kind of
solution to the public’s unmet needs.
It’s a wonderment to me, all this
attention being paid to the weather and all this “global warming”
business. Seems most of the “scientific” community and all of the
media have signed-on the band wagon and I’m not normally one to
question such astute folks. But with all the downright lying that’s
been going-on among our politicians and big business, one can hardly
believe anything much anymore. I just can’t tell whether it’s
always been this way and we just didn’t have all this “real-time”
reporting and in-your-face prevarication. Maybe people’ memories
are now just for a day or two and any one can say or do what he
pleases and simply do it over and over because attention spans are
so short or non-existent. P.T. Barnum supposedly said “you can fool
some of the people all of the time” and maybe because there seem to
be a lot more people, the numbers of those fooled certainly have
skyrocketed. With all these daily-reported disasters everywhere,
and they are documented in detail, are there more than they’re used
to be or are we just being told more or faster? I can’t tell.
Now in these parts we’ve had record
rains. None of us need the experts to tell us that; the grass
does. Why? Maybe we’re due a wet period after last year’s
drought. This summer, who knows? Maybe dry or wet or somewhere
in-between. Know that in advance and you’re assured of great wealth
and attention. Get it wrong and a few days after that’s proved,
you’re back in the prognostication business again with a story as to
why some unanticipated outside influence intervened and now you’ve
taken that into account and the error won’t be repeated. Did I say
“error”? Of course I meant “miscalculation” due to something that
just couldn’t be anticipated at the time.
But back to all this global warming
stuff we’re unable to escape even if we try. Anyone who’s lived a
while knows two things about the weather: it’s changeable and
cyclical. We know winter’s colder, summer’s hotter and spring and
fall are generally somewhere in-between. There’s also a lot of
wiggle-room within these periods and it’s those that nature provides
just to keep us honest and unable to take things for granted. And
then there are the other long-term cycles that can last for
hundreds, thousands and maybe even millions of years. They’re very,
very slow and come on imperceptibly to those experiencing them.
Tracing them is only by what they leave behind, not only where we
can see it, but hidden hundreds of feet and even miles and miles
below what we walk on or cross by boat. Pits, deeper mines and
endless core samples give clues as to what happened when. Long,
long before folks like us crawled from the muck (or if you will,
Adam, Eve and the serpent in Eden) beings did their thing.
Whatever your choice of mankind’s
beginnings, one thing is for sure. Since that moment, mankind has
changed things here on this planet by its very presence. And at
this stage of mankind’s presence here, there are a lot more of us
than ever before and we’re breeding like rabbits in the face of our
own medical science’s advances that make that no longer necessary to
maintain our species. Don’t get me wrong, all periods have their
plagues and famines and with each eradication or advance in food
production, nature fights back to maintain some equilibrium. Too
many people (or any animal)
consuming too much in resources leads
inevitably to a crash. It may be localized or cover a whole country
or continent or even worldwide. This global warming thing may or
may not be behind one or all of these. I just don’t know and can
only hope that me and mine don’t fatally fall within the ambit of
its consequences. I just don’t know any more than much of anyone
else, try as I will.
But what I do know is what I see.
That’s that every one of us and all of humanity everywhere is an
element of causing whatever becomes those who follow us. If indeed
there’s global warming and it’s not a good thing for human kind here
on this earth, we all played our part in bringing it about. Can we
and others help ourselves to forestall this? I don’t know. Am I
part of “some of the people” or one of those who can’t be fooled
“all of the time?” I don’t know that either. Do I lose sleep over
something I can’t do anything much about? Nope. But do I
nonetheless wonder at all mankind’s determined shortsightedness and
failure to look beneath the canvas flaps of the circus that our
world is, and at least try vigorously to understand the fake from
the real rather than be just the rubes Mr. Barnum knew ever so
well. Those who rely on their “leaders” to do this for them, I
fear, depend on the claques at his carney show, and the price of
admission can be fatal.
All of the bunkum we’re handed from
all sides on this one issue is little different than what’s gotten
away with daily on a multitude of others and we’ve really no way of
knowing one way or the other.
Take whatever solace you may, my
friend, the future core samples analyzed from our period will tell
the stark truth. Hopefully our kind will be there to finally know
it.